After fitting the new double bubble screen I rode it in to work on Tuesday and the wind now pops either over my helmet when I'm tucked down, or onto the helmet if I'm not (which isn't as annoying as it sounds). Vast improvement on the stock screen so money well spent.. and it looks pretty sharp into the bargain :)
Leaving work in the evening however I got as far as the first right turn (stationary at lights) and noticed no indicators on the dashboard or the lights themselves. I cancelled them, reapplied, tried left and right but nothing. With a straight road all the way home I figured I could just ride it home not overtaking anything and fix it there. I made the turn, got on to the slip road to join the main road, got it up to about 70mph to join the traffic, and the engine cut out, all the lights on the dash went out, and I had engine braking to get me into traffic. Luckily my bowels held out and a hand signal got me into the margin of the slip road safely out of the traffic. After checking side stand (down-up-down-up... yes it's definitely up), engine cutoff (yep.. not that), I looked at the ignition key which was in the OFF position. All I can guess is that if you turn the key to ON (but it's not quite locked in place) it can move back to OFF, in this case at the worst place it could have.
Once I'd calmed down and managed to stop saying a word that rhymes with duck, I turned the key to the much better position of ON, fired up at the first attempt, and spanked the arse off the bike to get up to speed on the remaining 100 yards of the slip road before joining the main drag.
One to watch out for in future, but at least no harm came of it this time, other than to people with delicate sensibilities who may have been within earshot of me at the time.
Saturday 16 May 2009
Monday 11 May 2009
Double Bubble action
I've been noticing that on the way to work, as I'm "making progress" the wind tends to hit me in the Adams apple which is annoying to say the least. To remedy this, and also pimp my ride a little more, I purchased a Puig Double Bubble screen from those lovely people at eBay. This is slightly taller than the stock screen so should divert the breeze over the top of my head if all goes to plan.
The stock screen looks like this.
It's a screen and.. well.. that's all there is to it.
The new screen looks like this.
You can see it is a little taller than the stock one, with the bubble in the middle (of double bubble fame). It's also got a Puig and FZ6 logo on the front... which is nice :)
This is it in place.
The changing is simple as the screen is only held on by two screws under each of the rubber boots on the wing mirror stalks, and one under the lights where the screen curves under. The only tricky part is the edging which is a plastic beading that you need to feed onto the edge of the screen. Swapping screens was 5 mins and the next 20 mins was fitting the beading, then taking it off to adjust it. If you're doing this then feed the first edge down far enough so it disappears under the rubber boot as that seems to look neatest. The excess is then trimmed with scissors.
Tomorrow should see this taking for its maiden voyage to work to see if it was money well spent, or just vanity on my part :p
The stock screen looks like this.
It's a screen and.. well.. that's all there is to it.
The new screen looks like this.
You can see it is a little taller than the stock one, with the bubble in the middle (of double bubble fame). It's also got a Puig and FZ6 logo on the front... which is nice :)
This is it in place.
The changing is simple as the screen is only held on by two screws under each of the rubber boots on the wing mirror stalks, and one under the lights where the screen curves under. The only tricky part is the edging which is a plastic beading that you need to feed onto the edge of the screen. Swapping screens was 5 mins and the next 20 mins was fitting the beading, then taking it off to adjust it. If you're doing this then feed the first edge down far enough so it disappears under the rubber boot as that seems to look neatest. The excess is then trimmed with scissors.
Tomorrow should see this taking for its maiden voyage to work to see if it was money well spent, or just vanity on my part :p
Sunday 10 May 2009
You can never have too much lubrication
After reading a couple of articles on the FZ6 forum I invested in a cable lubrication do-hickey (to give it it's technical name) courtesy of those lovely people at eBay. Sunday morning was bright and sunny so I decided to do a before and after run to see if there really was any effect.
A quick trip the the local shop for sunday paper and a tank full of petrol gave me the reference point before I started to fettle with anything. Next was the tricky bit of getting the end of the clutch cable out along with the sheathing. Luckily I'd invested in a Haynes manual which explains how to do this and after a quick look at the pictures I set to on it.
First step was to take a picture of the cable adjuster before I did anything so I could put the cable back again exactly as it was to start with.
There's a cut out along one edge of this adjuster (and the large disc) which locks it in position against the tab you can see touching the top of the large disc. As long as I ended up with the same 5 threads visible when it was locked I knew I was back where I started. To get the cable out you must spin the adjuster so it goes tight into the handlebar bracket (moves to the right in this pic) and with the slot down one side facing forward lining up with the one in the bracket. By then wiggling the rigid cable sheath it pops out of the adjuster and the cable itself then can be fed out of the slot in the front. The small cylinder that locks it in the clutch lever then drops straight down and you have one free cable.
Next is the attachement of the magic cable luber which looks like this.
The inner cable feeds through the centre of the rubber bung and the bottom of the rigid sheath goes into the bottom of this. The clamp is then closed which seals against the bottom of the sheath allowing the top of the cable to poke out (you can see the cylinder on the end which locks it in the clutch cable). A can of WD40 squirted into the hole in the side then can't go out the top and must go down the gap between the clutch cable and sheath lubricating it. A couple of squirts, a couple of pulls on the cable to let the lube go down, and it all felt much looser.
After wiping everything up (lube near tires... not a good idea) I fired the bike up again and went out for a quick spin.
The clutch felt much smoother than it was to start with so it looks like the WD40 has done the trick. It also appears the bike can knock on the door of 80mph in 2nd ...... which is nice for overtaking coming off roundabouts as I found out on the way back :-)
A quick trip the the local shop for sunday paper and a tank full of petrol gave me the reference point before I started to fettle with anything. Next was the tricky bit of getting the end of the clutch cable out along with the sheathing. Luckily I'd invested in a Haynes manual which explains how to do this and after a quick look at the pictures I set to on it.
First step was to take a picture of the cable adjuster before I did anything so I could put the cable back again exactly as it was to start with.
There's a cut out along one edge of this adjuster (and the large disc) which locks it in position against the tab you can see touching the top of the large disc. As long as I ended up with the same 5 threads visible when it was locked I knew I was back where I started. To get the cable out you must spin the adjuster so it goes tight into the handlebar bracket (moves to the right in this pic) and with the slot down one side facing forward lining up with the one in the bracket. By then wiggling the rigid cable sheath it pops out of the adjuster and the cable itself then can be fed out of the slot in the front. The small cylinder that locks it in the clutch lever then drops straight down and you have one free cable.
Next is the attachement of the magic cable luber which looks like this.
The inner cable feeds through the centre of the rubber bung and the bottom of the rigid sheath goes into the bottom of this. The clamp is then closed which seals against the bottom of the sheath allowing the top of the cable to poke out (you can see the cylinder on the end which locks it in the clutch cable). A can of WD40 squirted into the hole in the side then can't go out the top and must go down the gap between the clutch cable and sheath lubricating it. A couple of squirts, a couple of pulls on the cable to let the lube go down, and it all felt much looser.
After wiping everything up (lube near tires... not a good idea) I fired the bike up again and went out for a quick spin.
The clutch felt much smoother than it was to start with so it looks like the WD40 has done the trick. It also appears the bike can knock on the door of 80mph in 2nd ...... which is nice for overtaking coming off roundabouts as I found out on the way back :-)
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